Posted by: George | July 18, 2010

Another Night in Fresno

July 7, 2010 (late afternoon)

I must be getting a little punchy.

I drove six or seven hours today and ended up back in Fresno. I’m sure Fresno is a nice city, but I didn’t drive out west to spend two nights in Fresno.

Yesterday, my plan was to get a hotel on Hwy 41. Then, in the morning, I could drive out of the hotel parking lot, take a left, and set out directly for my campsite. I might even be able to set up camp in time to make a short trip into Yosemite.

I couldn’t find a hotel right on Hwy 41, so I spend the night a few exits away.

By the time I woke up and started out, I forgot I wasn’t on 41. Happy and clueless, I headed north into farmland. I eventually had that vague sense that something was off. When I stopped to ask for directions at a Gas-n-Sip, the clerk gave me one set of directions and a helpful customer gave me another. Confused, I went back to my car and figured out a third route.

My route made sense on the map. I found a road that would bring me close to Mammoth Campground, where I had a three day reservation. I figured, once I got close, I could ask for directions for the last few miles.

As I was driving straight up the side of a mountain, I came across a cyclists sitting on the guard rail, catching his breath. Then, I saw a small boat abandoned on the side of the road. I guess the owner couldn’t pull it up the steep incline. Then, I saw a mini-van, hood up, steam rising from the engine.

When I hit the top of the mountain, I asked for directions from an old guy sitting outside a tackle shop, relaxing, smoking a cigar. He said, “You got to go back down the mountain.”

I was probably three or four miles from my campsite, but I couldn’t get there.

So, I went down the mountain, found Hwy 41, and started back up the mountain. Hwy 41 was straight. Hwy 200 was full of curves. South Fork had even more. I was moving along at about 30 mph for over an hour.

I passed a large RV on the side of the road, steam rising from the hood. I stopped to see if the driver needed help. The main help he needed was to know the name of the road he was on so he could call a tow truck. I honestly don’t know how a tow truck could pull an RV off that mountain road.

I drove about 10 miles past where the campsite should be and never found it.

About this time, I realized my campsite, even if I could find it, would not be a good base for visiting Yosemite. On the way up the mountain, I saw a sign that said something like: “HWY 573 to Yosemite Closed.” My campsite, which I thought was about 30 minutes from Yosemite, was probably a three or four hour drive from the park. By the time I hit the gate, I would need to turn around.

So, I headed back to Fresno. By this time, about 3:30, I was exhausted. I pulled into an Applebee’s for lunch. I needed a few minutes to decide what to do next.

On trips like this, I usually like making decisions on the fly. I was stumped. Over lunch, I decided to check into a hotel and regroup.

This is the part of the trip that I had planned with the most detail. I thought Yosemite would be the highlight of the trip. I had planned on maps. I had planned on websites. I even tried to talk to a human being, but was soon lost in an automated phone system. I pushed two when I should have pushed three. Now, I wanted to head in the other direction.

Steinbeck wrote, “You don’t take a trip; a trip takes you.” Today, I got taken.

Every trip, short or long, has a day physical or emotional exhaustion—if you’re lucky, maybe even a complete emotional meltdown. It’s not necessarily a bad thing. It’s a release, and what is being release might have been building up long before the trip began.

This has been the first bad day of an otherwise great trip. I can’t complain.

My View All Day Long

Posted by: George | July 17, 2010

Yosemite

I will be going into my campsite outside of Yosemite this morning. I will be coming out on July 20. Unless I can find Internet service in the area, I may not be able to post for a few days.

Posted by: George | July 17, 2010

Rocinante

Steinbeck's Truck

July 16, 2010 (evening)

As I was approaching San Francisco, I saw a huge fog bank in the distance. I knew that must be the city. As I grew closer, I watched the fog creep over a hillside outside of Sausalito and burn off almost instantly as it hit the sun and warm air.

The micro-climates of the west coast apparently even affect real estate prices in San Francisco. Some areas rarely have sunshine, so apartments are cheaper there.

After I crossed the Golden Gate bridge, I tried to head south on Hwy 101 to connect with Hwy 280; instead, I took a detour through Oakland. Eventually, I found my way to the San Jose area and had lunch with Lisa, an old friend.

I mentioned to Lisa that I was amazed by the dry climate. She mentioned that when seasonal rains come in the spring, everything is green.

The hills in much of California, at this point of the summer, are covered by light brown grass, about the shade of hay. At a distance, it looks like crushed velvet.

After lunch with Lisa, I headed to Salinas to walk through the John Steinbeck Center. They have Racinante there—the very truck/camper that Steinbeck drove on his trip. By the time I hit Salinas, I was pretty tried. I don’t look too happy in the photo, but I am still having a great time.

I was struck by the size of Steinbeck’s truck, very small by today’s standards.

From Salinas, I drove east through the hills and farm land to Fresno, where it is pretty hot.

As I was driving today, I notice that I was having trouble pushing through. I think I am pretty tired. I decided to get a hotel room for the night, rest up, and take a shower.

Tomorrow, I will head to a campground just outside of Yosemite for three days. It will be good to be settled for a while. If you don’t hear from me, it’s because I am not able to find an Internet source.

Posted by: George | July 16, 2010

Reflections on Oregon and Muffin Tops

Someone submitted a comment yesterday on the “Localness” post. He/she felt I was ranting and whining about Oregon and why on earth would I say the muffin tops at Dutch Bros. are less than satisfying.
Just to clarify, Oregon is a beautiful state. I ought to know. I drove around it in circles. I got lost so much I am practically a resident.
Also to clarify: Dutch Bros. has good coffee (juding on my one trip there) and very attractive young women working the espresso machine. They even call you honey (again, judging on my one trip there). I just didn’t enjoy the muffin top (again, judging on a sample of one).
Here was the problem with the muffin top: It was slimey. I think there are two possible explanations: (1) the muffin top was placed in the plastic bag too soon after baking, the steam tried to escape, leading to slim on the surface, or (2) the mufflin top was shipped from Seattle in plastic and frozen, when it thawed on site, moisture collected around the surface, creating slim.
So, here are my suggestions for all coffee shops: (1) when possible, buy from local bakers, (2) if this is too complicated, don’t ship the pastry indvidually packaged in  plastic. You can ship it frozen, just not frozen and in plastic.
To summarize, the only things I didn’t like about Oregon (a very beautiful state) are (1) there seems to be a lack of roadsigns and (2) people give directions like they grew up in Maine (read some of Steinbeck’s thoughts on this point).
The only thing I didn’t like about Dutch Bros. is their muffin tops. Otherwise, I had a very good experience there. I would go back for the coffee and the “honey.”

Posted by: George | July 16, 2010

Santa Rosa

I camped last night at Sugar Loaf Mountain State Park. No bears or mountain lions there. However, this morning, three wild turkeys walked through my campsite like they owned the place. Well, I guess they do. Off and on, all night, I heard a fox screaming.
When I left this morning, the lady at the check in place asked me if I had “a little fun.” I told her I had a great time. We talked for a while about wild turkeys.
This morning, I am having breakfast in Santa Rosa, then I will probably head for Salinas to tour the Steinbeck Center. Santa Rosa is a beautiful town. Upscale with good restaurants, but not so upper-crust as Jackson Hole.
Somehow, I never got around to touring a winery. I didn’t even have a glass of wine with dinner last night.

Posted by: George | July 16, 2010

Reflections on Camping

July 15, 2010 (evening)

I thought it was about time to have some reflections on camping.

1. Packing

When I was packing for the trip, I thought I was being rational and organized. I thought about where I was going to pack items so that I could easily retrieve them. I packed my cycling gear in a small duffle so I could grab it when I was going for a bike ride and have everything I needed: my helmet, gloves, shoes, socks, etc. I packed everything I would need in the tent at night in another small duffle. This way, as soon as I set up my tent, I could throw in that duffle and I would be set for bedtime.

I could go on, but you get the idea. Then the trip started. My organization lasted for about two days. Now, whenever I break camp, I just throw stuff in my car, anywhere.

I do keep some important items, like bug spray, in the floor of the backseat so I can find them quickly. However, just about anything else takes considerable searching.

2. Breaking Camp

On the days when I am going to drive for a while, I don’t make breakfast in camp. I break camp as soon as I wake, start the drive, then stop later for breakfast.

The morning sounds of a campsite tend to follow a pattern. At first light, about 30 minutes or so before sunrise, when the light is being bent around the earth’s curve by gravity, the birds begin to sing. For most of my trip, this has been around 5:30.

I usually wake up with the birds. I try to go back to slept for a while, but usually give up at about 6:00.

When I wake up, I dress and pack everything in the tent. I deflate my air mattress and roll it up. Roll up the sleeping bags—the cold weather one and the warm weather one. Everything else goes into my nighttime duffle. All this goes in the car.

I have turned off the dome light of my car so, as I break camp, I can leave my car doors slightly open. If you are one of those people who try to sleep late, you probably get woken eventually by car doors slamming and zippers zipping. In a campsite, you can hear the zipper of a tent door from a half a mile; a car door slam from a mile. So, I try to keep slamming my car door down.

When I started this trip, I was careful about breaking down my tent. I swept out the inside, wiped dirt and condensation from the bottom, and packed it in its travel bag. Now, the only thing I pack in the travel bag is the rain fly, poles, and pegs. Everything else is thrown in the luggage box on top of the car. The tent and tarp dry out as I drive. Before I pitch the tent at the next camp, I brush off the dirt and leaves with my hand.

Without rushing, I am usually on the road by 6:30.

3. Bladder Problems

Before I started this trip, my friend Jim asked me, “What do you do if you need to pee at night?” He thought that I would walk to the camp bathroom in the dark, get attacked by a bear, and find myself dead by first light.

Well, a walk to the bathroom at night is not all that dangerous. But it is a bother.

My solution is a GaterAid bottle. I wash it out so that it won’t have a smell to attract animals; then, I put it in my tent where I can grab it in the dark.

If I need to go, I pee into the GaterAid bottle. It has a wide opening and its volume is slightly larger than the volume of my bladder.

In the morning, I dump the contents in the campsite, wash it out, and I am ready for the next night’s sleep.

More later on this subject (camping, that’s enough on bladder problems).

My camp in the Redwoods

Posted by: George | July 16, 2010

Palm Cafe

Palm Restaurant on Hwy 101

Tidal Pools off Hwy 101

July 15, 2010 (morning)

Last night I camped in the Redwood National and State Parks. Oringinally, there were a series of Redwood parks, some national and some state. I met a couple from Ontario who had been travelling up the west coast for 3 months. They are going at a much slower pace than I am. Stoich (I probably don’t have the right spelling) is originally from eastern europe. Vicki, his companion, didn’t say anything about work.

I broke camp as soon as I woke up. As I left the Redwoods, I entered a dense fog. I would spent all morning driving down Hwy 101, the scenic route, in the fog.

As soon as I hit a beach, I went for a walk. At the ranger’s lecture last night, I heard that it would be a negative tide (that is, a really low one) around 8:00 am. There would be tidal pools that might have some star fish and other sealife. I walked through the rocks, checking the pools, but no luck. Just sea water.

After about another hour on the road, I pulled into the Palm Cafe for breakfast. I had the Cowboy, sausage, eggs, toast, and pancakes. Jerry was my waiter (the only waiter, actually); he bought me my food and a paper. He also told me his life story. He grew up in the area, moved around a little, tried to break into acting in LA, but didn’t like the busy lifestyle.

If I had gone to a fast food place for breakfast, I could have asked the pimply kid at the counter about his life story, if he had one yet. If I had tried, I would have probably heard something like, “Step aside and wait for your order, please.”

For the rest of the day, I drove in and out of the Redwoods. When you enter a Redwood grove, there are signs that say “Turn on Your Lights.” It’s dark among the big trees. When a shaft of light breaks through, it is dramatic. I am afraid I am not a good enough photographer to capture it.

Tonight, I will camp outside Santa Rosa, a beautiful little town in wine country.

Posted by: George | July 16, 2010

No Gel

Control with No Gel

 

I’ve discovered if you don’t shower or wash your hair for three days, you have amazing control without using gel.

Posted by: George | July 15, 2010

You can’t get there from here . . .

July 14, 2010 (morning)

In Travels with Charley, Steinbeck recounts a number of episodes where he gets lost and has to ask for directions. People will usually give you direction, but there is almost always an additional message with the directions, which is usually, “How could you be so stupid to get lost around here?”

Once I hit Medford, I found Hwy 99, which I thought would take me to Hwy 199, which was supposed to go through the Redwoods.

I hit Hwy 99, but I keep driving and driving. I didn’t see a road sign for a while, so I thought I missed a turn. I went into a 7-Eleven to ask for directions.

I told the guy behind the counter that I was trying to get to Hwy 99.

He said, “You’re on it.”

I said, “I want to connect with Hwy 199 to go to the Redwoods.”

He said, “You can’t get to Hwy 199 from Hwy 99. Don’t you have a map?”

I said, “I have an atlas, and it show that 99 connects with 199.”

He said, “You can’t get to Hwy 199 from here. You have to go back to Grants Pass.”

I said, “I don’t want to go back to Grants Pass. I’ve been there three times this morning.”

He said, “Well, you’re going to have to decide what you want to do.”

I said, “Well, I don’t want to go back to Grants Pass.”

The ice cream guy restocking the freezer with Nutty Butties said, “I’d go back to Grants Pass.”

I left. I looked at my atlas and thought I found another route. About an hour later, I was back in Grants Pass. I stopped at a filling station. Two guys were outside filling up cars. (In Oregon, it’s against the law to pump your own, and no one seems to know why.) I said, “I’ve been trying to get to Hwy 199 for about three hours.”

Both guys pointed. One said, “You see those cars over there? That’s it. Go to the light and take a left.”

I probably should have gone back to that 7-Eleven and told the guy he was right. I did have to go through Grants Pass. He had manager potential.

Posted by: George | July 15, 2010

Localness

July 14, 2010 (morning)

Retracing some, certainly not all, of Steinbeck’s trip fifty years later can provide some perspective on America. Some of Steinbeck’s concerns, like the wastefulness of Americans and our impact on the environment, are still relevant. So, too, Steinbeck’s lament about our loss of localness.

I left Crater Lake early, at about 6:00 am. I thought I would start heading for the Redwoods and just grab breakfast on the road. After weaving through a number of roads that apparently had no name or number, I made my way into Medford. I would drive in circles around Medford for the next two and a half hours (more on that in another post).

When I started looking for a place to eat breakfast, I saw nothing but chains—McDonalds, Burger King, and Taco Bell. I also saw three separate chains of coffee kiosks—the small drive-thru espresso shops in a small building in the middle of a parking lot. I saw three of The Human Bean (get it?), two of The Pony Espresso (get it?), and four of the Dutch Bros (nothing to get, unless I missed some subtly). Oddly, no Starbucks.

Steinbeck was concerned about how every American town was becoming like every other American town. His fear has been realized. Just about every American town has the same kind of hotels, fast food chains, and the same muffler shops. Some of the chains are regional, like grocery stores. A driver is rarely startled moving through an American town or city.

I stopped into Dutch Bros, bought a latte, and a muffin top that was baked in Seattle. One of my concerns about American culture is the way that we tend to have pastries that look good but don’t taste very good. My muffin top was not very tasty, though I have to admit I don’t know what a muffin top is supposed to taste like.

As I continued to drive in circles for no apparent reason (except that the state of Oregon seems to want to save money on street signs), I parked on Front Street, which might have been in Medford or a town near Medford. On foot now, I saw a restaurant, the Pioneer Family Restaurant, attached to a bar, which was already open. At about 8:20 am.

I went in and ordered one of the specials—ham steak, eggs, toast, and hash browns. Two women around sixty or so, a little on the large size, were running the place. The waitress (didn’t get her name, so we’ll call her Rose) was singing along with the radio, a 1960s and 1970s format. She didn’t sing the entire song, just a phrase or word here and there.

“. . . low-rider, doo, doody, doody, doo . . .”

“. . . alone again . . .”

She sang really loud and not at all on pitch. Her voice lacked resonance.

When she paused for a few minutes, three people at a table started to applaud, and she said, “Throw money.” They said, “We applauded because you stopped.”

They probably play out this scene seven mornings a week.

When Rose delivered my breakfast, I said, “That’s a big ham steak.”

“I told you it was 20 ounces.”

“I guess I didn’t hear that part.”

I was only able to finish about a third of the ham steak, even though it was very tasty. Rose offered to pack the leftovers up. I told her I was on a road trip. She said, “I can pack it in ice.” I told I would just cut my losses.

As I was leaving, I told Rose that I liked her singing. She let out a hearty laugh.

I had a break time at breakfast. So many Americans would never think of taking a chance on a place like the Pioneer Family Restaurant. They seemed to prefer the assured mediocrity of fast food over the uncertainty of local fare.

As I drove around circles for the next few hours, I thought about returning for lunch. Rose might have saved my ham steak.

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